Gamcheon and beyond: the artsy side of Busan you shouldn’t miss
Busan was a bit of a mystery when we first added it to our Korea itinerary. Richard, being the film guy that he is, had heard of it thanks to the Busan International Film Festival. I knew it had beer, art, and cute sky capsules—so really, is was a no brainer.
Then I started reading about the phenomenon of the ‘culture villages’ and ‘mural villages’. The former are designed to attract tourists to showcase traditional Korean culture, the later being neighbourhoods where most of the local walls, streets and buildings have been adorned and decorated. Both are designed to attract a certain amount of tourism.
Gamcheon Culture Village
First up: the big one. Gamcheon Culture Village is probably the most famous of Busan’s villages — and for good reason. Colourful, creative, and full of nooks to explore, it’s also very, very popular. We arrived early by bus, unsure what to expect or how long we’d stay.
As we wandered the labyrinth of candy-coloured buildings, we admired the walls, stairways, and doorways decorated with sculptures, illustrations, and murals (and spotted a few friendly cats lounging on steps). The local shops brimmed with handmade goods — from tote bags and postcards to socks and jewellery. We noticed rubber stamp stations along the walking route designed to mark your progress on a printed tourist map — but we were too far from the centre to grab one and ended up buying a postcard to use instead.
Then the crowds arrived.
The famous photo spot with the Little Prince statue overlooking the colourful rooftops had a queue about 50 people deep, mostly tourists dressed in rented hanboks aiming for the perfect shot. But just a few minutes away from the crowds, we found a quiet corner to relax, take in the view, soak up some sun, and grab a snack. Speaking of snacks, we grabbed some fresh hotteok from a vendor on our walk back — these sweet, nutty pancakes quickly became one of my favourite treats from the trip, perfect for a quick break for weary travelers.
Dakbatgol Mural Village
If Gamcheon is the flashy Instagram star, Dakbatgol is its quiet, arty cousin. We discovered it thanks to an adorable mini monorail — and found a very different character. Like Gamcheon, we arrived early to avoid crowds. I’m not sure what the local school kids and commuters thought of two obvious tourists hopping on their bus, but we were on a mission.
Dakbatgol was far more subdued. No artists selling wares, no tourists in hanboks, and definitely no queues for photos. It felt like a genuine local neighbourhood with murals painted by residents: a collage tree over a staircase, a cartoon bird reading a paper, a watercolor tiles depicting a waterfall. Weathered and worn, each piece spoke its own story. We passed a seniors’ centre, a multi-storey car park, and even a local tomcat who left his mark on a tiled roof.
As we checked Naver for the bus back, we spotted the mint-green mini monorail slowly creeping up the steep hill — the very reason we’d come. While waiting at the base for free two-seater to return down, my partner stepped onto the track to get a shot of it approaching (at a snail’s pace, for the record, you can literally walk faster). A local stationed nearby shouted a warning; I smiled, watching the tiny carriage inch closer.
Eventually, we got our turn to ride up — though a local lady carrying groceries beat us to the top. That slow, steady ride made the visit worthwhile. A peaceful and slightly surreal ride. Kind of like the whole morning.
Huinnyeoul Culture Village
This last village caught us by surprise. On one of our final days in Busan, we had some free time, so I spotted a walking trail along the ocean on the map — a perfect way to spend a dry morning. This area is also where the haenyeo of Busan, the famous “sea women,” free dive to gather their catch. Unfortunately, the walkway was closed for renovations scheduled to finish just after we left. The sky threatened drizzle. Sigh.
We ended up wandering around Huinnyeoul Culture Village instead. Smaller than the others, it offered a charming seaside stroll. The shops featured plenty of cat-themed keepsakes (right up my alley), local school kids greeted us like celebrities, and a friendly council worker practiced his English with us. He even wanted a selfie with the Aussies. (He kindly warned us about the uneven footpath multiple times as we moved on).
We also spotted a piece by Aussie artist Mulga, a nice and unexpected touch of home. A small lookout with binoculars rewarded us with glimpses of the haenyeo diving below. (Note to self: consider bringing binoculars next time—they’re very helpful!) A cup of tea and slice of cake later, we felt invigorated and ready to take on the rest of the day.
Location of the 3 Art/Culture villages. We did find Naver to be the better map app in South Korea
Final thoughts
While Busan’s mural villages range from full-blown tourist attractions to sleepy neighbourhoods, each gave us a chance to slow down and spot the colourful side of the city. Bonus points for snacks, sea women, and snail-paced monorails. If you’re heading to Busan and looking for ways to how to fill your time and immerse yourself — this is a pretty delightful way to do it.
Travel tips
Want souvenir stamps? Pick up the official map at the Gamcheon tourist centre—or grab a postcard and DIY.
Gamcheon and Huinnyeoul have more shops and snack options; Dakbatgol is more local and low-key.
Bring cash for street snacks at Gamcheon. Hotteok is a must.
The Dakbatgol monorail is free, but always give priority to locals.
Do both Gamcheon and Dakbatgol in one day—but start early at Gamcheon to beat the crowds. You could probably squeeze Huinnyeoul in too.
Wear good shoes: hills, steps, and uneven paths are the norm.
Nerdy facts
Gamcheon’s glow-up: Once a hillside slum, it was revitalised in 2009 through a public art project encouraging residents and artists to transform the area.
Dakbatgol origins: The mural project began in 2010, led by artist Gu Bon-ho alongside locals.
Busan’s haenyeo: Often associated with Jeju Island, these sea women still dive for seafood —without oxygen tanks.
