23 hours in Prague
We only had one day in Prague. In fact, we had slightly less. Here's how we made the most of 23 hours in the Czech capital, from the Old Town and Charles Bridge to great food, art, music video locations and local beer.
We were staying in Berlin and, after a successful day trip to Poznań, Poland, started looking at what else was within easy reach of the German capital.
Szczecin? We'd only just returned from Poland and were still full of pierogi and St. Martin's croissants. Spreewald or Potsdam? Tempting, but with no guarantee we'd be back in Europe any time soon, another country seemed the better choice.
Thinking of going to Prague, but want to skip the narrative? Jump here.
Prague’s Old Town — pictured here without the crowds.
Getting there
Prague is less than four hours from Berlin by train, making it one of Europe's easiest international day trips. While you can fly, most flights require a connection and actually take longer.
We caught the EuroCity service from Berlin Hauptbahnhof, booking through Deutsche Bahn (DB), although Czech Railways (ČD) also sells tickets. Leaving at around 9.30am, we arrived at Prague hlavní nádraží (Praha hl.n.) shortly after 1.30pm. Our train had at least three separate bachelorette parties on board, an early indication of the kind of activty we’d find in the city
Our base was the Hotel Grand Bohemia. It isn't the cheapest option, but its location—within walking distance of both the station and Old Town—made it ideal when every hour counted.
A new sensation in Old Town
One of the first landmarks we encountered was the Powder Tower. Dating back to the 15th century, it’s one of Prague's original city gates and the historic entrance to Old Town. Its striking Gothic façade is worth admiring whether you climb it or simply pass beneath.
Next door, the elegant Municipal House is home to the Smetana Hall concert venue and some beautiful Art Nouveau interiors, including works by Alphonse Mucha.
For us, though, the real attraction was something a little different. INXS filmed the New Sensation music video on the roof above the entrance, while scenes from Guns in the Sky were shot inside the building. It's not the only INXS connection in Prague either, but we'll come back to that after crossing Charles Bridge. (Amy is planning a dedicated article on INXS in Prague, so keep an eye out for that.)
Pivo: exploring Prague’s foamy beer heritage
If you really want to get to know a place, start with its beer. That's especially true in Prague. Pilsner was born just 90 kilometres away in Plzeň, and Czechia consistently ranks as the world's biggest beer-drinking nation on a per-capita basis.
Our first stop was the Letná Beer Garden. After climbing a surprisingly steep staircase, we were rewarded with cold Pilsner Urquell, sweeping views across Prague Castle, Old Town and the Žižkov Television Tower, and one of the city's best places to simply pause and take it all in. We loved that beer was sold from a kiosk, drunk on long bench tables and people brought their own picnic lunches.
Later, we headed to Lokál Dlouhááá, one of Prague's best-known beer halls. The menu is unapologetically Czech, with plenty of hearty meat dishes and a handful of vegetarian options, but it's the beer ritual that's worth experiencing. Different pours deliberately produce different amounts of foam, and the country's master beer pourers are treated with rockstar status. Naturally, we tried all three styles, including one that was almost entirely foam.
Prague on a Friday night is hopping, especially as we were there the day after a public holiday. In fact, we tried going to one place where the exasperated server simply told us “not tonight.” But that’s how we found Pivovar U Tří růží, a 15th-century restaurant with six beers brewed on-site and a menu of local dishes and quick service that had vegetarian options.
Fun foam facts: foam is flavour!
Foam isn't a sign of a bad pour: in Prague, it's an art. Foam is a natural lid that helps trap and release hop oils up to your nose. In Czech Republic, there are three essential pours to know.
Hladinka — a standard pour. Three fingers of foam atop the lager. The dense, wet foam balances the bitterness and sweetness.
Šnyt — Or 'slice'. Two parts beer, three parts foam. Refreshing and ulimately less filling, so great for those heavier meals.
Hladinka — Czech for 'milk', here the glass is almost entirely filled with the thick foam. Sweet and foamy, drink it down fast.
Charles Bridge and the Astronomical Clock
Nothing quite prepared us for the crowds.
By early evening, both Charles Bridge and Prague's Astronomical Clock were absolutely packed. If you're visiting during peak season, expect to shuffle rather than stroll. Keep an eye on your belongings, be patient and accept that your Insta-perfect photo may need to wait.
The Astronomical Clock, attached to the Old Town Hall since the 15th century, comes to life every hour as the Twelve Apostles appear in a short procession. Local legend says that if the skeleton representing Death nods its head, or the clock isn’t maintained, disaster will befall the Czech nation.
Charles Bridge, meanwhile, has linked both sides of the Vltava River for centuries. Thirty statues line the crossing, while buskers and artists add to its lively atmosphere. Fans might also recognise it from INXS' Never Tear Us Apart music video.
We returned early the next morning and it was a completely different experience. Before 10am, we could stop to admire the statues, take in the river views and wander across to Malá Strana (the Lesser Quarter) towards Prague Castle without constantly weaving through crowds.
If you only take one tip from this whole post, make it this: visit Charles Bridge early.
Mucha, local art and the other Louvre (for cake)
Prague is a city of art, both old and new, and sometimes it turns up where you least expect it. In Malá Strana, we stumbled across colourful street art before reaching the ever-evolving, Beatle-inspired Lennon Wall. Covered in layers of paint, stickers and messages, it feels like a fitting symbol for a city shaped by centuries of overlapping influences.
Away from the crowds, but no less lively, is Café Louvre. Serving Praguers since 1902, its elegant Art Nouveau dining rooms are reason enough to visit. The famous Sacher-Torte is excellent, but my tip is the Czech sweet bun stuffed with poppy seeds and smothered in vanilla sauce. It's worth the stop all on its own.
The Mucha Foundation Museum was one of the highlights of our visit. One of two major museums dedicated to Czech artist Alphonse Mucha, it was established by his grandson and is now run by his great-grandson, Marcus Mucha. We even had the chance to meet him briefly during our visit, making the experience feel that little bit more special.
Soon enough it was time to head back to Prague hlavní nádraží for our 12.30pm train to Berlin. We never did make it to Wenceslas Square thanks to construction work…but we somehow still found time for a little shopping before boarding.
TL;DR
Catch the train. The journey from Berlin Hauptbahnhof to Prague hlavní nádraží takes less than four hours. Book ahead and reserve seats, particularly on weekends.
Visit Charles Bridge early. Before 10am you'll avoid the biggest crowds and actually have space to enjoy it.
Expect a lively nightlife. Prague's reputation for affordable beer makes it a popular weekend destination, so consider staying midweek if sightseeing is your priority.
Experience Czech beer culture. Try the different styles of pour, including a mlíko ("milk") pour that's almost entirely foam.
Don't skip the Mucha Foundation Museum. Beyond the artwork itself, it's still run by Mucha's family, giving it a uniquely personal feel.
Crowds bustling across the Charles Bridge on a Friday evening.
Final thoughts
Prague is many things. As one of Europe's best-preserved medieval cities, it’s beautiful. For beer drinkers, it can be a unique or a cheap pour depending on what kind of weekend you want. It’s a city of art and nightlife, and one where dozens of contemporary influences sometimes battle each other for tourist attention. Yet it’s unquestionably a place worth spending time in, even if it’s just for (almost) one day.
