The East Side Gallery is a permanent open-air art gallery and memorial on a 1.3-kilometre stretch of the former Berlin Wall, between Berlin Ostbahnhof and the Oberbaumbrücke, alongside the River Spree.
It's open 24/7, rain or shine, and completely free to visit. Allow an hour or two if you want to take your time, read the stories behind the murals and explore the area. If you're short on time, you can walk the length of the gallery in around 30–40 minutes, although you'll probably want to stop at a few of the more famous paintings.
I'd done plenty of research before we arrived in Berlin, but there were still things I learned during our visit (and a few more afterwards).
Here are my 11 things about the East Side Gallery that I didn't know before I went.
“Uhrmenschen der Computer” (Primeval clockwork computer people) by César Olhagaray
1. It almost didn't happen.
When the Berlin Wall opened in November 1989, the prevailing mood was that it should come down. “Die Mauer muss weg!” (“The Wall must go!”) became a rallying cry, and dismantling began in June 1990.
There were people who argued that sections should be preserved for future generations, but these voices initially struggled to gain widespread support. For many, the Wall was a hated symbol of division, and removing it was part of moving forward. The East Side Gallery began as an artistic initiative in 1990, when artists were invited to paint a surviving section of the Wall. What was intended as a temporary art project helped save the 1.3-kilometre stretch from demolition.
2. Artists from 21 countries took part
The original East Side Gallery was created by 118 artists from 21 countries. Around half came from East Berlin or the German Democratic Republic (GDR), as East Germany was officially known. Their works range from political commentary and satire to more abstract and expressions of hope for the future.
I think when I first saw images of the art, I assumed the artists were mainly from Germany and its neighbours. While most were living in Berlin or elsewhere in Germany at the time, the project had a much wider international reach. One example is Dmitri Vrubel, the Russian artist behind the famous painting of Soviet leaders Leonid Brezhnev and Erich Honecker kissing, who came from Moscow to paint the Wall.
“Mein Gott, hilf mir, diese tödliche Liebe zu überleben” (“My God, help me to conquer this deadly love”) by Dmitry Vrubel
3. Yes, that famous kiss is still there
Speaking of Leonid Brezhnev and Erich Honecker kissing. Yes, Dmitri Vrubel's famous painting of the Soviet and East German leaders kissing is still there. Its full title is My God, Help Me to Survive This Deadly Love, and it's also known as the Fraternal Kiss. The image references the political ritual of the fraternal socialist kiss, a public display of solidarity between communist leaders. You'll probably recognise it even before you arrive. It's reproduced on everything from postcards and magnets to T-shirts. It's one of those images that has become a souvenir in its own right.
“BERLYN” by Gerhard Lahr
4. Much of the artwork has been recreated
It would be lovely to think that every painting has survived untouched since 1990, but that's not the case.
The exposed concrete and paint have suffered from weather, pollution, graffiti and general wear and tear. Some works were repainted or repaired in earlier restoration projects, but the major restoration in 2008–09 was particularly significant. The paintings were removed, the concrete repaired and the surfaces prepared for repainting. Many of the original artists returned to recreate their work. Some reproduced their earlier designs closely, while others made changes.
So, although you're looking at the historic Wall, much of the paint you see today is a recreation rather than the untouched original artwork.
5. The restoration caused a copyright controversy
The 2008–09 restoration wasn't without controversy. In 2011, 21 artists took legal action against the city of Berlin over the way some of the works had been handled. The dispute centred on artworks that had been destroyed or recreated without the artists' permission. According to The Guardian, artists had been offered €3,000 to repaint their murals, with the threat that works could otherwise be removed or recreated by others. Some artists considered the offer inadequate, particularly given the reported €2.2 million budget for the renovation project.
6. The famous side is right beside a very busy road
There's something slightly unexpected about standing in front of an internationally recognised historical monument while everyday city traffic passes nearby. The main murals face Mühlenstraße, a busy road, and the pavement between the Wall and the traffic can become crowded, especially around the most popular paintings.
7. But it's worth walking along both sides of the Wall
The famous murals face the street, so that's where you'll find the best-known works, including the aforementioned Fraternal Kiss. But don't assume the riverside side is simply a second gallery of equally famous paintings. It offers a different perspective on the Wall and its setting beside the Spree River, with other imagery and a more open park environment.
8. Modern Berlin is right up against the Wall
Apartment buildings, offices and contemporary developments sit alongside parts of the East Side Gallery. The surrounding area has changed considerably since the Wall came down, and the gallery now exists within a busy, redeveloped part of Berlin.
That contrast is worth noticing. A structure that once represented a heavily guarded border is now part of an urban landscape of homes, businesses, public spaces and people going about their everyday lives.
Detail from “Worlds People – Wir sind ein Volk” by Shamil Gimayev and the iron gate
9. Local residents apparently cut a gate through the Wall
One of the more unexpected details is an iron-gated passage through the Wall near the former East Side Wagenburg caravan community. The precise circumstances of its creation remain uncertain, but accounts from people who witnessed the events suggest that residents cut the opening during the 1990s to make it easier to reach their homes beside the Spree.
The caravan community was established in 1991 on what had previously been part of the Wall's border strip. Rather than walking to one end of the 1.3-kilometre stretch to get around the still-closed section, residents apparently made their own shortcut. The community was cleared by police in 1996, but the inconspicuous gate remains as a reminder of this little-known chapter in the area's history.
It's such a Berlin way of problem solving. It takes too long to walk along the wall to get home? Cut a doorway in the wall! Problem solved.
10. Berlin Wall souvenirs aren't always what they seem
Those little painted fragments of the Berlin Wall sold in souvenir shops and market stalls are tempting mementos. But it's worth knowing what you're actually buying. Some fragments are genuine pieces of the Wall, while others may be made from plaster or other materials. Even when the concrete is authentic, the colourful paint may have been added later, and the fragment's origins may not be independently verifiable. So, “a genuine piece of the Berlin Wall” doesn't necessarily mean “a piece of the Berlin Wall with original graffiti or paint”. A colourful chunk of concrete can be a perfectly good souvenir, but its story shouldn't be taken for granted.
11. As with many busy tourist areas, you need to keep an eye on your stuff
The East Side Gallery is somewhere to be aware of your surroundings and keep your valuables secure. There are warnings about theft along the entire stretch of the Gallery, and a little preparation can help you spend your time looking at the art rather than worrying about your belongings.
For more practical advice, see our guide to how we manage pickpocket-prone areas: Pirate Mode, Peanut Butter and the Travel Security System We Didn't Know We Needed
Contemporary artwork located on the West Side of the Berlin wall
Practicalities
The East Side Gallery is free and accessible 24/7, so it's easy to fit into a Berlin itinerary. You can walk the full length, stop at the murals that interest you and explore the surrounding neighbourhood without needing to book a ticket.
I'd recommend leaving a little more time than you think you'll need. The famous paintings are only part of the story, and some of the most interesting details are the ones you might otherwise walk straight past.
Public transportation to the East Side Gallery is super easy. Warschauer Straße and Ostbahnhof railway stations are both great starting points for your visit, both stations are close and easily accesible by U-, S-Bahn and Tram.
As you can tell from the photos, the weather was a bit all over the place on the Spring day we visited. We took refuge in a local restaurant for a cuppa and a slice of cake. Strangely, it was a pirate themed place (Berlin you beautiful, strange beast, this is why we love you.) But the weather let up, and we spent more time along the Spree. Don’t let the weather get the best of you, keep going!
If you can make an early start or visit on a week day, you’ll have less crowds to navigate around.
